How to use the Traveler.

What is the Traveler?

The traveler is a track with an adjustable car to which the mainsail sheet is attached. By sliding the traveler car to port or starboard, the position of the boom is changed without changing the length of the mainsail sheet. In other words, the traveler controls the boom’s angle to the center line and the twist of the mainsail.

Traveler

The traveler position affects the boat’s helm and can produce lee helm, weather helm or balance. Remember, that when trimming sails, your goal is to minimize rudder movement and keep it within a 0-5 degree band.

A primary use of the traveler is to keep the boom centered when sailing close-hauled. Because the mainsheet tackle covers a span between the boom and the boat attachment, the boom will move to leeward no matter how tight the mainsheet is sheeted in. Moving the traveler car slightly upwind when sailing close-hauled can bring the boom back over the center line to gain the most power from the mainsail. Easing the traveler is preferable to easing the sheet or vang, as pointing ability is more easily maintained.

Be careful not to bring the boom to windward of the center line, however. This causes a loss of power.

Trimming with the Traveler.

Generally, with increasing wind, the traveler should be moved from the center line to leeward until the main just luffs slightly in the parts near the mast. In lighter air, move the traveler to windward without having the boom cross the center line. Please note that there are exceptions to this, especially when racing.

Moving the traveler to windward also reduces boat heel and weather helm, the tendency of most sailboats to turn toward the wind with a gust. With the traveler in this position, you need less rudder angle to stay on course, it is easier to steer and boat speed should increase. As mentioned above, if you are sailing with a rudder angle of more that 5°, you are sailing “with the handbrake on”.

Beating and close reaching: Move traveler to adjust the mainsail’s angle to the wind.

Broad reach and running: Use the vang before easing the sheet and move the traveler as far as possible to leeward.

Reminder

To achieve optimum trim, there are four basic adjustments:

1. Adjust twist with the mainsheet/vang tension.
2. Adjust sail depth with mast bend and outhaul.
3. Adjust draft position with main halyard.
4. Adjust helm balance with traveler position.

As usual, go out and play with your adjustments as all boats are different and need to be adjusted accordingly.

Sail Power

Sail power is controlled by three main power sources. Only when you reach the optimum mix of all three will you achieve proper trim. The three sources are: Angle of Attack, Shape and Twist.

Angle of Attack
This is the angle at which the wind hits the sail. When the sails are luffing, you have a zero angle. To increase the angle of attack and the power, trim in the sails, move the main traveler to windward, pull the jib lead inboard , or bear away.

Shape
Depth is the amount of curvature (otherwise known as camber) in a sail. It is measured as a proportion of the distance from luff to leech. A mainsail with a maximum depth (draft) of 10% is a flat sail, while a draft of 15% would mean a deep or full main.
A deep sail provides more power for punching through waves while a flatter sail creates less drag. A flatter sail also creates less drag, is faster in smooth water, and also creates a wider angle of attack for pointer closer. A flatter shape is better in heavy air when a boat is overpowered.

A sail can be controlled by the amount of depth as well as its position. The usual goal is to put the deepest draft about 40-45% of the way aft from luff to leech in a mainsail and 30-40% aft for the jib. Moving draft forward makes for less drag and more forgiving steering in waves. However, moving draft aft enables higher pointing.

Twist
A sail with little twist is more powerful than a sail with lots of twist. You can identify a better twist by noting a closed upper leech that is nearly parallel to the lower leech. Too much twist with power spilling aloft will be seen by an opening at the upper leech. Because the wind is stronger aloft, it is usually necessary to have some twist.  This will allow the apparent wind angle more open near the top of the sail than down low.

Should you need to depower a sail, ease the sheet to increase twist or by flattening. Easing the sheet is preferred in a chop, while flattening is better in smooth water.

Boom Vang

A boom vang (also known as a kicking strap) is a line or piston system on a sailboat used to exert downward force on the boom and thus control the shape of the sail. Boom vang will compensate for a change in sail shape as the mainsail is let out or eased and will control twist on a reach or run.

The vang typically runs from the base of the mast to a point about a third of the way out the boom. A line based boom vang usually includes some type of pulley system due to the great force necessary to change the height of the boom while a boat is under sail. On larger sailboats, vang is most often a hydraulic piston controlled by manual or electric hydraulic pumps.

So, let’s take a look at how to use boom vang for sail shape. The boom vang governs the boom’s vertical angle. When it is tightened, it will reduce the twist of the mainsail. When it is loosened, it will tend to twist the sail, causing the upper area of the sail to be let out in relation to the lower area. Telltales on the mainsail’s leech (back edge of the sail) will guide you in adjusting the twist of your sail.

Check the telltales (especially the top one) to determine if they are streaming aft more than 50% of the time. If not, this is a good indication that you need to adjust your boom vang tension. If unsure, test it by loosening the boom vang until the top area of the mainsail or telltales start to luff. Then, tighten the boom vang until the luffing stops and the telltales are streaming backward.

Anytime you play with the mainsail sheet, the twist of the sail may change. Make sure to readjust the vang if you notice an undesirable twist. If you wish to keep the shape of your mainsail, use the traveler rather than the mainsheet. Also remember that sail shape is maintained by using all three lines: the mainsail sheet, the traveler and the boom vang.

General Guidelines

Your telltales (especially at the top of the mainsail) should be streaming aft most of the time.

Light air: be careful not to tighten the boom vang too much.

Heavier air: tighten the boom vang until the top batten in the mainsail is approximately parallel to the boom.

Next we will cover traveler adjustment and playing with the mainsheet to achieve optimum mainsail shape.

Parts of the Main Sail

Mayday Mayday Mayday

This past weekend we had a close call on the water during our spring SCORE race in Monterey Bay out of Santa Cruz. We were sailing the last downwind leg when another boat on the course flagged us down frantically yelling Man Overboard, Man Overboard! They pointed in the general direction of where he fell into the water and we abandoned the race to help with the search.

I immediately grabbed the VHF radio and called in a Mayday to the Coast Guard on Channel 16.  It was uncomfortable to know that I had never had to call in a Mayday or Pan Pan or Securite, and while I remembered the basic information to relay, this is the perfect time to review the proper procedure for a Mayday distress call.

Mayday! Mayday! Mayday!…Sending a distress call

You may only have seconds to send a distress call. Here’s what you should do:

Procedure for VHF Channel 16 MAYDAY:

1. If you have an MF/HF radiotelephone tuned to 2182 kHz, send the radiotelephone alarm signal if one is available. If you have a VHF marine radio, tune it to channel 16. Unless you know you are outside VHF range of shore and ships, call on channel 16 first.
2. Distress signal “MAYDAY”, spoken three times.
3. The words “THIS IS”, spoken once.
4. Name of vessel in distress (spoken three times) and call sign or boat registration number, spoken once.
5. Repeat “MAYDAY” and name of vessel, spoken once.
6. Give position of vessel by latitude or longitude or by bearing (true or magnetic, state which) and distance to a well-know landmark such as a navigational aid or small island, or in any terms which will assist a responding station in locating the vessel in distress. Include any information on vessel movement such as course, speed and destination.
7. Nature of distress (sinking, fire etc.).
8. Kind of assistance desired.
9. Number of persons onboard.
10. Any other information which might facilitate rescue, such as length or tonnage of vessel, number of persons needing medical attention, color hull, cabin, masks, etc.
11. The word “OVER”

Stay by the radio if possible. Even after the message has been received, the Coast Guard can find you more quickly if you can transmit a signal on which a rescue boat or aircraft can home.

For example:

MAYDAY-MAYDAY-MAYDAY
THIS IS BLUE DUCK-BLUE DUCK-BLUE DUCK WA1234
CAPE HENRY LIGHT BEARS 185 DEGREES MAGNETIC-DISTANCE 2 MILES
STRUCK SUBMERGED OBJECT
NEED PUMPS-MEDICAL ASSISTANCE AND TOW
THREE ADULTS, TWO CHILDREN ONBOARD
ONE PERSON COMPOUND FRACTURE OF ARM
ESTIMATE CAN REMAIN AFLOAT TWO HOURS
BLUE DUCK IS THIRTY TWO FOOT CABIN CRUISER-WHITE HULL-BLUE DECK HOUSE
OVER

Repeat at intervals until an answer is received.

If you hear a distress call…

If you hear a distress message from a vessel and it is not answered, then you must answer. If you are reasonably sure that the distressed vessel is not in your vicinity, you should wait a short time for others to acknowledge.

Like any other emergency situation where you don’t have the full details, it is important to take action immediately to be on the safe side. This person had been in the water for close to 45 minutes and was on the verge of severe hypothermia (life threatening). And, their own VHF had gone overboard in their round up.

It was also a good lesson in wearing brightly colored gear, which helped us find him. Imagine trying to find someone in 10 foot swells with 30 knots of wind and trying to control your own boat in the meantime.

Please be safe.

How To Read The Wind

Sailing is easy. It is learning to read the wind that is challenging. You can not see the wind. You can only see results of the wind. You must train your eye to look for wind indicators. Some wind indicators to look for while on or near the water are: flags, smoke, anchored boats, throw sand in the air, long hair and ripples on the water.

You can also use your boat to find the wind if necessary. Let the main sail (rear sail) out completely, turn the boat until the boom (horizontal support at bottom of sail) comes in over the center of the boat, the front of the boat is now pointed at the wind direction. Ripples on the water are one of the best natural wind indicators because they are around you all the time and they also help estimate the wind speed. The bigger the ripple, the stronger the wind.

Wind is one of the trickiest elements for the new sailor to become attuned to because it can only be observed indirectly. We have moving air around us all of our lives, but people are oblivious to it. Because sailing a vessel uses wind, a sailor who is aware of where the wind is and its shifts is advantageous.

The ocean is the largest surface on the earth and with disruptions caused by various land features, along with the differences in the rate that air masses heat and cool, the result is incessantly moving air—wind. Land areas warm and cool more rapidly than bodies of water. For that reason, cooler, denser air often flows from the water toward land, a sea breeze, during the day, and from the land toward water at night. Because the temperature contrast is usually greater during the day in summer, the sea breeze is usually stronger.

Before leaving the dock, take notice of wind conditions by being aware of speed and direction. Most harbors have some kind of flag, burgee or banner that functions not only as a nautical emblem, but it can also indicate what is going on with the wind. Flapping wildly means—you guessed it—lots of wind; hanging straight down, a lack of wind; and alternating in between the two likely means puffy conditions. At the top of many sailboat masts is a wind fly, which will point in the direction the wind is coming from. Pieces of yarn tied to the stays, also let the sailor know the wind direction. The wind can also be sensed with the ears, face, or hands.

Look at anchored boats to help indicate wind direction, but remember that current can complicate the picture. If there is no current, a boat will point into the wind. If the current is stronger than the wind, however, they may point in the direction of the current. If the wind and current are exerting about the same force on a boat, it will point midway between the current and wind directions.

Wind lines formed by puffs of stronger wind will make the water appear darker and choppier as it advances toward the boat. Whitecaps form when the wind is between 11 to 16 knots. Below this speed, it takes some practice to see wind lines. And in light air one might be sailing with mere ripples visible on the water. Once sailing, a good exercise is to watch for changes in wind speed and call the puffs and lulls out. Also bear in mind that currents can also distort the appearance of the wind on the water. Anytime the current flows against the wind, choppier waters result. When the current flows with the wind, the water appears calmer.

The important thing about wind is that the speed and direction are always shifting and require continual monitoring. Sometimes the boat experiences favorable wind shifts called lifts that allow a boat to point higher into the wind. Other times the boat experiences headers, which force the boat to sail lower than the desired course.

How the air interacts with headlands, swirls off city buildings, or funnels through bridges affects how boats sail. Other boats nearby can likewise produce a change in wind speed. Race boats use their sails to blanket the wind from each other to assert tactical advantages. Large ships can also block wind and create large windholes. Terrain can amplify wind speed since a narrow strait of water between two promontories is likely to funnel and accelerate wind. Long expanses of unobstructed water also have an effect on sea state, allowing wind to sweep across the surface and build wavelets into chop, and chop into swells.

It is also good to recognize that the wind you feel at sea level is related to the clouds above you. Do the bottom layers of clouds move faster than the top layers? Are the clouds and the wind you feel moving in the same direction? Is there a clearing trend or are the clouds billowing up into intimidating thunderheads? Is the wind you experience sucking you toward them? Noting conditions before you leave the dock will give you something of a benchmark once you get underway.

One can read information about the wind from other sailboats as well. A boat upwind several miles away heeling over on its ear while you are barely moving means more wind is heading your way. Conversely, a boat upwind that seems to be flat and listless means a lull lies in that direction. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out that a sailboat returning with its crew in full foul-weather gear and with a reef in the main has seen some breeze, and that if you are just heading out, you might do well to put a reef in as well.

And it doesn’t take a genius to figure out the best way to learn about wind is to get out and sail in it. So stop reading, and start sailing!

Check out the NOAA website for further weather related information.

Check out the Beaufort Wind Scale here.

Basic Sailing Terms

Basic Sailboat Terms

Rudder: A spade-like object at the back of the boat that steers the boat by deflection of the water.

Tiller: The lever that controls the rudder. Larger boats have a wheel instead of a tiller.

Winches: A mechanical device used to increase pulling power on a line. (purchase)

Gooseneck: The fitting that connects the boom to the mast. It works like a swivel allowing the boom to move up and down and swing from side to side.

Keel: The weighted fin at the bottom of the boat that keeps the boat from slipping sideways through the water.

Bow: Front end of the boat.

Stanchions: Vertical posts that hold lifelines in place.

Pulpit: Safety rail at the bow of the boat.

Stern: Back end of the boat.

Port: The left side of the boat when facing forward.

Starboard: The right side of the boat when facing forward.

Basic Standing Rigging

Mast: The large vertical stick that supports the sail and boom.

Boom: The horizontal stick used to hold and extend the foot of the main sail.

Forestay: The wire (cable) that supports the mast from the bow and prevents the top of the mast from moving aft.

Backstay: The wire that supports the mast from the stern and prevents the top of it from moving forward.

Shrouds: The wires that support the mast from the sides and prevent it from moving sideways.

Turnbuckle: Device for adjusting tension on shrouds and stays.

Basic Running Rigging

Halyards: Lines or wire rope used to hoist (raise) the sails.

Sheets: Lines used to control the sails.

Outhaul: Line used to tighten or tension the foot bottom edge) of the sail.

Downhaul: Line used to tighten or tension the luff (forward edge) of the sail. Boom Vang: Line used to pull the boom down. It prevents the boom from lifting which causes the top part of the sail to twist.

Topping Lift: Holds the end of the boom up and prevents it from falling into the cockpit when the main sail is lowered.

Basic Sail Terms

TERMS APPLYING TO BOTH MAIN AND JIB SAILS

Head:Top corner. (Where halyard connects to sail)

Tack: Bottom forward corner.

Clew: Bottom back corner.

Luff: Forward edge.

Foot: Bottom edge.

Leech: Backedge.

Cringle: Metal reinforcement ring.

TERMS THAT USUALLY APPLY TO MAIN SAILS

Battens: Wood or plastic strips that act as stiffeners for the sail. They help keep the leech from fluttering.

Batten Pockets: Pockets sewn into the trailing edge of the sail to hold the battens.

Roach: The unmeasured sail area along the back edge of the Sail.

Cunningham: The cringle (grommet) on the luff of the sail used to achieve luff tension for draft control. (sail shaping)

Reef Points: The row of points where the reef ties (gaskets) are attached to the sail. These are used for shortening sail in strong winds.

Parts of the Main Sail

Basic Points of Sail

In Irons: within 45 degrees of the wind, also known as dead in the water.

Close Hauled: Sailing as close to the wind as possible, this is also known as pointing.

Close Reach: Sailing between close hauled and beam reach.

Beam Reach: Sailing so that the wind is on the beam. (the beam is the middle of the boat).

Broad Reach: Sailing so that the wind is behind the beam (abaft abeam in truly nautical terms).

Running: Sailing so that the wind is directly astern. The jib and main sails will be on opposite sides. (wing and wing).

Points of Sail